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Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882

"The Voyage of the Beagle"

From the
edges of the plain there are distant views either of the ocean, or
of the great Bay with its low-wooded shores, and on which numerous
boats and canoes show their white sails. Excepting from these
points, the scene is extremely limited; following the level
pathways, on each hand, only glimpses into the wooded valleys below
can be obtained. The houses I may add, and especially the sacred
edifices, are built in a peculiar and rather fantastic style of
architecture. They are all whitewashed; so that when illumined by
the brilliant sun of mid-day, and as seen against the pale blue sky
of the horizon, they stand out more like shadows than real
buildings.
Such are the elements of the scenery, but it is a hopeless attempt
to paint the general effect. Learned naturalists describe these
scenes of the tropics by naming a multitude of objects, and
mentioning some characteristic feature of each. To a learned
traveller this possibly may communicate some definite ideas: but
who else from seeing a plant in an herbarium can imagine its
appearance when growing in its native soil? Who from seeing choice
plants in a hothouse can magnify some into the dimensions of forest
trees, and crowd others into an entangled jungle? Who when
examining in the cabinet of the entomologist the gay exotic
butterflies, and singular cicadas, will associate with these
lifeless objects the ceaseless harsh music of the latter and the
lazy flight of the former,--the sure accompaniments of the still,
glowing noonday of the tropics? It is when the sun has attained its
greatest height that such scenes should be viewed: then the dense
splendid foliage of the mango hides the ground with its darkest
shade, whilst the upper branches are rendered from the profusion of
light of the most brilliant green.


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