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Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882

"The Voyage of the Beagle"

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Overhead numerous gannets, frigate-birds, and terns, rest on the
trees; and the wood, from the many nests and from the smell of the
atmosphere, might be called a sea-rookery. The gannets, sitting on
their rude nests, gaze at one with a stupid yet angry air. The
noddies, as their name expresses, are silly little creatures. But
there is one charming bird: it is a small, snow-white tern, which
smoothly hovers at the distance of a few feet above one's head, its
large black eye scanning, with quiet curiosity, your expression.
Little imagination is required to fancy that so light and delicate
a body must be tenanted by some wandering fairy spirit.
SUNDAY, APRIL 3, 1836.
After service I accompanied Captain Fitz Roy to the settlement,
situated at the distance of some miles, on the point of an islet
thickly covered with tall cocoa-nut trees. Captain Ross and Mr.
Liesk live in a large barn-like house open at both ends, and lined
with mats made of woven bark. The houses of the Malays are arranged
along the shore of the lagoon. The whole place had rather a
desolate aspect, for there were no gardens to show the signs of
care and cultivation. The natives belong to different islands in
the East Indian archipelago, but all speak the same language: we
saw the inhabitants of Borneo, Celebes, Java, and Sumatra.


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