Having ascended the steep coast-mountains by a
zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of the mines of Guantajaya
and St. Rosa. These two small villages are placed at the very
mouths of the mines; and being perched up on hills, they had a
still more unnatural and desolate appearance than the town of
Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre works till after sunset,
having ridden all day across an undulating country, a complete and
utter desert. The road was strewed with the bones and dried skins
of many beasts of burden which had perished on it from fatigue.
Excepting the Vultur aura, which preys on the carcasses, I saw
neither bird, quadruped, reptile, nor insect. On the
coast-mountains, at the height of about 2000 feet, where during
this season the clouds generally hang, a very few cacti were
growing in the clefts of rock; and the loose sand was strewed over
with a lichen, which lies on the surface quite unattached. This
plant belongs to the genus Cladonia, and somewhat resembles the
reindeer lichen. In some parts it was in sufficient quantity to
tinge the sand, as seen from a distance, of a pale yellowish
colour. Farther inland, during the whole ride of fourteen leagues,
I saw only one other vegetable production, and that was a most
minute yellow lichen, growing on the bones of the dead mules.
Pages:
688
689
690
691
692
693
694
695
696
697
698
699
700
701
702
703
704
705
706
707
708
709
710
711
712