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Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882

"The Voyage of the Beagle"


Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. Peru was
in a state of anarchy; and each party having demanded a
contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in tribulation, thinking
the evil hour was come. The people had also their domestic
troubles; a short time before, three French carpenters had broken
open, during the same night, the two churches, and stolen all the
plate: one of the robbers, however, subsequently confessed, and the
plate was recovered. The convicts were sent to Arequipa, which
though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues
distant, the government there thought it a pity to punish such
useful workmen who could make all sorts of furniture; and
accordingly liberated them. Things being in this state, the
churches were again broken open, but this time the plate was not
recovered. The inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and declaring
that none but heretics would thus "eat God Almighty," proceeded to
torture some Englishmen, with the intention of afterwards shooting
them. At last the authorities interfered, and peace was
established.
JULY 13, 1835.
In the morning I started for the saltpetre-works, a distance of
fourteen leagues.


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