The scenery in this part had assumed a Chilian
character: the lower sides of the mountains, dotted over with the
pale evergreen Quillay tree, and with the great chandelier-like
cactus, are certainly more to be admired than the bare eastern
valleys; but I cannot quite agree with the admiration expressed by
some travellers. The extreme pleasure, I suspect, is chiefly owing
to the prospect of a good fire and of a good supper, after escaping
from the cold regions above: and I am sure I most heartily
participated in these feelings.
APRIL 8, 1835.
We left the valley of the Aconcagua, by which we had descended, and
reached in the evening a cottage near the Villa de St. Rosa. The
fertility of the plain was delightful: the autumn being advanced,
the leaves of many of the fruit-trees were falling; and of the
labourers,--some were busy in drying figs and peaches on the roofs
of their cottages, while others were gathering the grapes from the
vineyards. It was a pretty scene; but I missed that pensive
stillness which makes the autumn in England indeed the evening of
the year. On the 10th we reached Santiago, where I received a very
kind and hospitable reception from Mr.
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