We bought
water-melons nearly twice as large as a man's head, most
deliciously cool and well-flavoured, for a halfpenny apiece; and
for the value of threepence, half a wheelbarrowful of peaches. The
cultivated and enclosed part of this province is very small; there
is little more than that which we passed through between Luxan and
the Capital. The land, as in Chile, owes its fertility entirely to
artificial irrigation; and it is really wonderful to observe how
extraordinarily productive a barren traversia is thus rendered.
We stayed the ensuing day in Mendoza. The prosperity of the place
has much declined of late years. The inhabitants say "it is good to
live in, but very bad to grow rich in." The lower orders have the
lounging, reckless manners of the Gauchos of the Pampas; and their
dress, riding-gear, and habits of life, are nearly the same. To my
mind the town had a stupid, forlorn aspect. Neither the boasted
alameda, nor the scenery, is at all comparable with that of
Santiago; but to those who, coming from Buenos Ayres, have just
crossed the unvaried Pampas, the gardens and orchards must appear
delightful. Sir F. Head, speaking of the inhabitants, says, "They
eat their dinners, and it is so very hot, they go to sleep--and
could they do better?" I quite agree with Sir F.
Pages:
627
628
629
630
631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639
640
641
642
643
644
645
646
647
648
649
650
651