The
ordinary plate-bud does not take freely with the olive. Some of them may
do this; other seedlings may be slow and have to be budded in the second
summer. Watch the size and the sap flow so that the bark will lift well
- which may not be at just the time that deciduous trees are budded. It
may be both earlier or later in the season. Graft evergreens like the
olive in the nursery row; not by bench grafting.
Budding Old Olives.
I have seedling olive trees, set out in 1904, which I wish to change
over to the Ascolano variety. Which is the best way to do it, by budding
or grafting, and what is the proper time?
Twig-budding brings the sap of the stock to bear upon a young lateral or
tip bud, which is much easier to start than dormant buds used either as
buds or grafts. A short twig about an inch and a half in length is taken
with some of the bark of the small branch from which it starts, and both
twig and bark at its base are put in a bark slit like an ordinary shield
bud and tied closely with a waxed band, although if the sap is moving
freely it would probably do with a string or raffia tie. Put in such
buds as growth is starting in the spring.
Olives from Small Cuttings.
In the rooting of small soft-wood olive cuttings is it necessary to
cover same with glass - say perhaps prepare a cold-frame and put stable
manure in the bottom with about eight inches of sand on top?
It ceases to be a cold-frame when you cover in manure for bottom heat;
it becomes a hotbed.
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