NOTE 22
In the number of persons of all ranks who assembled at the same table,
though by no means to discuss the same fare, the Highland chiefs only
retained a custom which had been formerly universally observed throughout
Scotland. 'I myself,' says the traveller, Fynes Morrison, in the end of
Queen Elizabeth's reign, the scene being the Lowlands of Scotland, 'was
at a knight's house, who had many servants to attend him, that brought in
his meat with their heads covered with blue caps, the table being more
than half furnished with great platters of porridge, each having a little
piece of sodden meat. And when the table was served, the servants did sit
down with us; but the upper mess, instead of porridge, had a pullet, with
some prunes in the broth.'--Travels, p. 155.
Till within this last century the farmers, even of a respectable
condition, dined with their work-people. The difference betwixt those of
high degree was ascertained by the place of the party above or below the
salt, or sometimes by a line drawn with chalk on the dining-table. Lord
Lovat, who knew well how to feed the vanity and restrain the appetites of
his clansmen, allowed each sturdy Fraser who had the slightest
pretensions to be a Duinhewassel the full honour of the sitting, but at
the same time took care that his young kinsmen did not acquire at his
table any taste for outlandish luxuries.
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